Pisco Oeste (5760 m)

Cebollapampa: Cebollapampa with Chacraraju (6001 m)
After meeting up in Lima, Jim and I had travelled north to Huaraz in the center of the Cordillera Blanca where we stayed for two days in order to organize our gear, buy supplies, and figure out how to get to Nevado Pisco, which was to be our acclimatization climb.

We left Huaraz on Sunday by collectivo to get to Yunday from where we took a taxi that brought us to Cebollapampa, our first camp at the end of the Llanganuco valley. The taxi ride was quite memorable. With 3 people in the front, 5 people in the back, and a box of live chicken in the trunk the Toyota Corolla wasn´t crowded by Peruvian standards, however, by our standards it certainly was.

Pisco Base Camp: Yanapaccha (5460 m)
Cebollapampa, which is at an elevation of 3900 m, was to be our first stop to acclimatize. We spent two days there during which we did a hike to Laguna 69 at about 4600 m. From Cebollapampa we moved up to the Pisco base camp at 4600 m where we stayed another couple of days. At that time the weather changed from blue skies to cloudy skies and occasional rain and snow at night. After 3 days of bad weather we were quite frustrated and even thought of giving up on the summit and heading down to wait out the bad weather in Huaraz. However, Jim convinced me to move up to moraine camp anyway. Even if we climbed Pisco in a whiteout and didn't see anything we would at least be well acclimatized for the next climbs. So we moved to the moraine camp at 4900 m. There were two other parties at moraine camp: one party wanted to climb Hunday via a difficult route and was waiting out the bad weather. The other party was an Italian couple who wanted to climb Pisco as well. We had dinner together and hocked up for the climb. Our summit attempt would start at 2am the following morning.

Pisco Climb: ascending the final pitch below the summit of Piso Oeste (5752 m)
At 2am the alarm went off and the sky was clear!

To make a long story short, the summit climb was great and the weather stayed clear the whole day. From the summit we had awesome views of Huascaran, Peru´s highest mountain, Chopicalqui, Artesonraju, Alpamayo, Quitaraju, Santa Cruz, and the Hunday group.

When we arrived back at moraine camp I was wiped out and wanted to stay a second night there. Jim, however, as well as the Italians felt great and pressed on to get to base camp. The Italians had arranged for a guy with a horse to pick them and their gear up from base camp and perhaps there would be some space for our packs as well. So further down we went. At base camp we met the guy and his horse and he managed to pack the packs of the 4 of us onto the poor horse. We arrived at Cebollapampa before nighfall where we caught a ride on a tour bus back to Huaraz.

Here are a view videos from our climb...

...and here a few more photos:

Pisco Climb: on the summit of Piso Oeste (5752 m) with Chopicalqui (6354 m) , Huascaran Sur (6768 m), and Huascaran Norte (6664 m) in the background

Pisco Climb: loading our luggage on the horse below Pisco base camp

Jim´s photos can be found here http://picasaweb.google.com/jim.prager/Pisco. Also, check out his blog post about the climb.

  • Jul 06, 2008
  • Cebollapampa and Laguna 69
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: Taxi ride from Yungay to Cebollapampa
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: Taxi ride from Yungay to Cebollapampa
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: Cebollapampa
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: Cebollapampa
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: Cebollapampa with Chacraraju (6001 m)
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: Cebollapampa with Chacraraju (6001 m)
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: Cebollapampa and Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: Cebollapampa and Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: hike to Laguna 69
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: hike to Laguna 69
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: hike to Laguna 69 with Chacraraju (6001 m)
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: hike to Laguna 69 with Chacraraju (6001 m)
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: Laguna 69
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: Laguna 69
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: Laguna 69 with Chacraraju (6001 m)
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: Laguna 69 with Chacraraju (6001 m)
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Cebollapampa and Laguna 69: Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
  • Jul 07, 2008
  • Cebollapampa
Cebollapampa: Cebollapampa with Chacraraju (6001 m)
Cebollapampa: Cebollapampa with Chacraraju (6001 m)
Cebollapampa
Cebollapampa
Cebollapampa
Cebollapampa
Cebollapampa
Cebollapampa
Cebollapampa: Cebollapampa and Chopicalqui (6354 m)
Cebollapampa: Cebollapampa and Chopicalqui (6354 m)
Cebollapampa
Cebollapampa
Cebollapampa
Cebollapampa
  • Jul 08, 2008
  • Pisco Base Camp
Pisco Base Camp
Pisco Base Camp
Pisco Base Camp: Refugio Peru
Pisco Base Camp: Refugio Peru
Pisco Base Camp: Yanapaccha (5460 m)
Pisco Base Camp: Yanapaccha (5460 m)
Pisco Base Camp: Yanapaccha (5460 m) and Chopicalqui (6354 m)
Pisco Base Camp: Yanapaccha (5460 m) and Chopicalqui (6354 m)
  • Jul 09, 2008
  • Pisco Base Camp
Pisco Base Camp: climbers crossing the glacier
Pisco Base Camp: climbers crossing the glacier
Pisco Base Camp: Pisco base camp as seen from the moraine
Pisco Base Camp: Pisco base camp as seen from the moraine
Pisco Base Camp: Yanapaccha (5460 m)
Pisco Base Camp: Yanapaccha (5460 m)
Pisco Base Camp: Pisco Oeste (5752 m)
Pisco Base Camp: Pisco Oeste (5752 m)
  • Jul 10, 2008
  • Pisco Base Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp
  • Jul 11, 2008
  • Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp: breaking camp and sorting the gear
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp: breaking camp and sorting the gear
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp: breaking camp and sorting the gear
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp: breaking camp and sorting the gear
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp: at Pisco base camp just before heading up to the Moraine camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp: at Pisco base camp just before heading up to the Moraine camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp: descending the moraine
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp: descending the moraine
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp: crossing the glacier
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp: crossing the glacier
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp: crossing the glacier
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp: crossing the glacier
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp: Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp: Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp: Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp: Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp: pitching the tent at Pisco Moraine camp
Hike to Pisco Moraine Camp: pitching the tent at Pisco Moraine camp
  • Jul 12, 2008
  • Pisco Climb
Pisco Climb: Jim preparing for the climb at 4am in the morning
Pisco Climb: Jim preparing for the climb at 4am in the morning
Pisco Climb: preparing for the climb of Pisco
Pisco Climb: preparing for the climb of Pisco
Pisco Climb: Huandoy (6160 m) group at dawn
Pisco Climb: Huandoy (6160 m) group at dawn
Pisco Climb: Quitaraju (6036 m), Alpamayo (5947 m) and Artesonraju (6025 m) at dawn
Pisco Climb: Quitaraju (6036 m), Alpamayo (5947 m) and Artesonraju (6025 m) at dawn
Pisco Climb: Jim, Quitaraju (6036 m), Alpamayo (5947 m) and Artesonraju (6025 m)
Pisco Climb: Jim, Quitaraju (6036 m), Alpamayo (5947 m) and Artesonraju (6025 m)
Pisco Climb: Huandoy (6160 m)
Pisco Climb: Huandoy (6160 m)
Pisco Climb: Huascaran (6768 m) and Huandoy Sur (6160 m)
Pisco Climb: Huascaran (6768 m) and Huandoy Sur (6160 m)
Pisco Climb
Pisco Climb
Pisco Climb
Pisco Climb
Pisco Climb: Huascaran and Huandoy group
Pisco Climb: Huascaran and Huandoy group
Pisco Climb: Chopicalqui (6354 m) , Huascaran Sur (6768 m), and Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Pisco Climb: Chopicalqui (6354 m) , Huascaran Sur (6768 m), and Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Pisco Climb: Huandoy
Pisco Climb: Huandoy
Pisco Climb: Huandoy group
Pisco Climb: Huandoy group
Pisco Climb: Huascaran Sur (6768 m), and Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Pisco Climb: Huascaran Sur (6768 m), and Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Pisco Climb: Huandoy Sur(6160 m), Huandoy Oeste(6356 m), and Huandoy Norte (6395 m)
Pisco Climb: Huandoy Sur(6160 m), Huandoy Oeste(6356 m), and Huandoy Norte (6395 m)
Pisco Climb: Chopicalqui (6354 m) , Huascaran Sur (6768 m), and Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Pisco Climb: Chopicalqui (6354 m) , Huascaran Sur (6768 m), and Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Pisco Climb: Huandoy Sur(6160 m), Huandoy Oeste(6356 m), and Huandoy Norte (6395 m)
Pisco Climb: Huandoy Sur(6160 m), Huandoy Oeste(6356 m), and Huandoy Norte (6395 m)
Pisco Climb: ascending the final pitch below the summit of Piso Oeste (5752 m)
Pisco Climb: ascending the final pitch below the summit of Piso Oeste (5752 m)
Pisco Climb: Huandoy Oeste(6356 m), and Huandoy Norte (6395 m)
Pisco Climb: Huandoy Oeste(6356 m), and Huandoy Norte (6395 m)
Pisco Climb: Jim below the summit, Chopicalqui (6354 m) , Huascaran Sur (6768 m), and Huascaran Norte (6664 m) in the background
Pisco Climb: Jim below the summit, Chopicalqui (6354 m) , Huascaran Sur (6768 m), and Huascaran Norte (6664 m) in the background
Pisco Climb: Huascaran Sur (6768 m), and Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Pisco Climb: Huascaran Sur (6768 m), and Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Pisco Climb: Jim ascending the final pitch below the summit of Piso Oeste (5752 m)
Pisco Climb: Jim ascending the final pitch below the summit of Piso Oeste (5752 m)
Pisco Climb: on the summit of Piso Oeste (5752 m)
Pisco Climb: on the summit of Piso Oeste (5752 m)
Pisco Climb: on the summit of Piso Oeste (5752 m) with Chopicalqui (6354 m) , Huascaran Sur (6768 m), and Huascaran Norte (6664 m) in the background
Pisco Climb: on the summit of Piso Oeste (5752 m) with Chopicalqui (6354 m) , Huascaran Sur (6768 m), and Huascaran Norte (6664 m) in the background
Pisco Climb: Martha preparing for the descend with Huandoy Oeste(6356 m) and Huandoy Norte (6395 m) in the background
Pisco Climb: Martha preparing for the descend with Huandoy Oeste(6356 m) and Huandoy Norte (6395 m) in the background
Pisco Climb: preparing for the descend with Huandoy group in the background
Pisco Climb: preparing for the descend with Huandoy group in the background
Pisco Climb: on the summit of Piso Oeste (5752 m) with Alpamayo (5947 m) and Artesonraju (6025 m)
Pisco Climb: on the summit of Piso Oeste (5752 m) with Alpamayo (5947 m) and Artesonraju (6025 m)
Pisco Climb
Pisco Climb
Pisco Climb: Quitaraju (6036 m), Alpamayo (5947 m) and Artesonraju (6025 m)
Pisco Climb: Quitaraju (6036 m), Alpamayo (5947 m) and Artesonraju (6025 m)
Pisco Climb: Artesonraju (6025 m) and Chacraraju (6001 m)
Pisco Climb: Artesonraju (6025 m) and Chacraraju (6001 m)
Pisco Climb: Laguna Paron, Quitaraju (6036 m), Alpamayo (5947 m) and Artesonraju (6025 m)
Pisco Climb: Laguna Paron, Quitaraju (6036 m), Alpamayo (5947 m) and Artesonraju (6025 m)
Pisco Climb: summit panorama: Jim on the summit of Pisco Oeste (5762 m) with Yanapacchu (5460 m), Chopicalqui (6354 m) , Huascaran Sur (6768 m), Huascaran Norte (6664 m), Huandoy Sur(6160 m), Huandoy Oeste(6356 m), Huandoy Norte (6395 m), Quitaraju (6036 m), Alpamayo (5947 m), Artesonraju (6025 m), Chacraraju (6001 m)
Pisco Climb: summit panorama: Jim on the summit of Pisco Oeste (5762 m) with Yanapacchu (5460 m), Chopicalqui (6354 m) , Huascaran Sur (6768 m), Huascaran Norte (6664 m), Huandoy Sur(6160 m), Huandoy Oeste(6356 m), Huandoy Norte (6395 m), Quitaraju (6036 m), Alpamayo (5947 m), Artesonraju (6025 m), Chacraraju (6001 m)
Pisco Climb: Martha preparing for the descend
Pisco Climb: Martha preparing for the descend
Pisco Climb
Pisco Climb
Pisco Climb: Daniel with the Huandoy group
Pisco Climb: Daniel with the Huandoy group
Pisco Climb: Huascaran Sur (6768 m) and Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Pisco Climb: Huascaran Sur (6768 m) and Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Pisco Climb
Pisco Climb
Pisco Climb: Quitaraju (6036 m), Alpamayo (5947 m), Artesonraju (6025 m)
Pisco Climb: Quitaraju (6036 m), Alpamayo (5947 m), Artesonraju (6025 m)
Pisco Climb: Jim with Huascaran Sur (6768 m) and Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Pisco Climb: Jim with Huascaran Sur (6768 m) and Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Pisco Climb: Artesonraju (6025 m)
Pisco Climb: Artesonraju (6025 m)
Pisco Climb
Pisco Climb
Pisco Climb
Pisco Climb
Pisco Climb: Artesonraju (6025 m)
Pisco Climb: Artesonraju (6025 m)
Pisco Climb
Pisco Climb
Pisco Climb: Chopicalqui (6354 m) , Huascaran Sur (6768 m), Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Pisco Climb: Chopicalqui (6354 m) , Huascaran Sur (6768 m), Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Pisco Climb: back at moraine camp
Pisco Climb: back at moraine camp
Pisco Climb: loading our luggage on the horse below Pisco base camp
Pisco Climb: loading our luggage on the horse below Pisco base camp
Pisco Climb: loading our luggage on the horse below Pisco base camp
Pisco Climb: loading our luggage on the horse below Pisco base camp
Pisco Climb: descending to Cebollapampa
Pisco Climb: descending to Cebollapampa
Pisco Climb: descending to Cebollapampa
Pisco Climb: descending to Cebollapampa
Pisco Climb
Pisco Climb