Success on Yanapaccha

Jul 26 — 27, 2008

Yanapaccha Moraine Camp: sun set by the lake
After our failed attempt to climb Chopicalqui due to me being sick, we had just four more days in the Cordillera Blanca before heading south for Cusco, the Sacred Valley, and the Amazon jungle. We wanted to climb (successfully!) one more peak and picked Yanapaccha (5460 m/17913 ft) in the Llanganuco valley. The mountain can be climbed in just two days from Huaraz even though it is more difficult than its neighbor Nevado Pisco that we had climbed a couple weeks earlier.

To make a not so long story even shorter: This time everything went well. The weather was gorgeous and nobody got sick. The climb was even more challenging than expected with several pitches of steep snow and a 60-70 degree pitch of ice to gain the glacier. There was only one more party on the mountain on that day, a bunch of nice British guys with their guide and a cook, which made for a pleasant experience. We belayed the steeper sections of the climb using running belays which worked quite well. At the end, the most dangerous part of the whole trip was probably rough ride back to Huaraz. We were lucky to catch a ride on a commuter bus but it was in pretty bad shape and we were relieved when it had successfully navigated the steep and exposed switchbacks toward the pass at 4700 m.

Here are some photos from this trip:

Yanapaccha climb: Jim in the bergschrund

Yanapaccha climb: guided climbing party crossing a bergschrund

Yanapaccha climb: Jim on the summit of Yanapaccha (5347 m) with Huascaran Sur (6768 m) and Norte (6664 m) looming behind

Yanapaccha climb: on the summit of Yanapaccha (5347 m)

Jim also wrote a trip report of our Yanapaccha climb that has lots of photos.

  • Jul 26, 2008
  • Yanapaccha Moraine Camp
Yanapaccha Moraine Camp: after being dropped off at the road side in the Ishinca valley to head out for Yanapaccha
Yanapaccha Moraine Camp: after being dropped off at the road side in the Ishinca valley to head out for Yanapaccha
Yanapaccha Moraine Camp: Ishinca valley
Yanapaccha Moraine Camp: Ishinca valley
Yanapaccha Moraine Camp: Yanapaccha (5347 m)
Yanapaccha Moraine Camp: Yanapaccha (5347 m)
Yanapaccha Moraine Camp: glacier below Yanapaccha (5347 m)
Yanapaccha Moraine Camp: glacier below Yanapaccha (5347 m)
Yanapaccha Moraine Camp: Jim in camp
Yanapaccha Moraine Camp: Jim in camp
Yanapaccha Moraine Camp: camp by a lake
Yanapaccha Moraine Camp: camp by a lake
Yanapaccha Moraine Camp: sun set by the lake
Yanapaccha Moraine Camp: sun set by the lake
Yanapaccha Moraine Camp: sun set by the lake
Yanapaccha Moraine Camp: sun set by the lake
  • Jul 27, 2008
  • Yanapaccha climb
Yanapaccha climb: climbing at predawn
Yanapaccha climb: climbing at predawn
Yanapaccha climb: Jim in the bergschrund
Yanapaccha climb: Jim in the bergschrund
Yanapaccha climb: Jim in the bergschrund
Yanapaccha climb: Jim in the bergschrund
Yanapaccha climb: Jim climbing up with a guided climbing party nearby
Yanapaccha climb: Jim climbing up with a guided climbing party nearby
Yanapaccha climb: Huascaran Sur (6768 m) and Norte (6664 m) seen from high up on Yanapaccha (5347 m)
Yanapaccha climb: Huascaran Sur (6768 m) and Norte (6664 m) seen from high up on Yanapaccha (5347 m)
Yanapaccha climb
Yanapaccha climb
Yanapaccha climb: crossing a bergschrund
Yanapaccha climb: crossing a bergschrund
Yanapaccha climb: guided climbing party crossing a bergschrund
Yanapaccha climb: guided climbing party crossing a bergschrund
Yanapaccha climb
Yanapaccha climb
Yanapaccha climb
Yanapaccha climb
Yanapaccha climb
Yanapaccha climb
Yanapaccha climb
Yanapaccha climb
Yanapaccha climb: Jim on the summit of Yanapaccha (5347 m) with Huascaran Sur (6768 m) and Norte (6664 m) looming behind
Yanapaccha climb: Jim on the summit of Yanapaccha (5347 m) with Huascaran Sur (6768 m) and Norte (6664 m) looming behind
Yanapaccha climb: Jim on the summit of Yanapaccha (5347 m) with Huascaran Sur (6768 m) and Norte (6664 m) looming behind
Yanapaccha climb: Jim on the summit of Yanapaccha (5347 m) with Huascaran Sur (6768 m) and Norte (6664 m) looming behind
Yanapaccha climb: Jim on the summit of Yanapaccha (5347 m) with Chopicalqui (6354 m), Huascaran Sur (6768 m) and Norte (6664 m) looming behind
Yanapaccha climb: Jim on the summit of Yanapaccha (5347 m) with Chopicalqui (6354 m), Huascaran Sur (6768 m) and Norte (6664 m) looming behind
Yanapaccha climb: Jim on the summit of Yanapaccha (5347 m)
Yanapaccha climb: Jim on the summit of Yanapaccha (5347 m)
Yanapaccha climb: Huandoy group seen from the summit of Yanapaccha (5347 m) with Huandoy Sur (6160 m), Huandoy Oeste (6356 m), Huandoy Norte (6395 m), and Huandoy Este (6000 m)
Yanapaccha climb: Huandoy group seen from the summit of Yanapaccha (5347 m) with Huandoy Sur (6160 m), Huandoy Oeste (6356 m), Huandoy Norte (6395 m), and Huandoy Este (6000 m)
Yanapaccha climb: Jim on the summit of Yanapaccha (5347 m)
Yanapaccha climb: Jim on the summit of Yanapaccha (5347 m)
Yanapaccha climb: Chopicalqui (6354 m), Huascaran Sur (6768 m) and Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Yanapaccha climb: Chopicalqui (6354 m), Huascaran Sur (6768 m) and Huascaran Norte (6664 m)
Yanapaccha climb
Yanapaccha climb
Yanapaccha climb
Yanapaccha climb
Yanapaccha climb: on the summit of Yanapaccha (5347 m)
Yanapaccha climb: on the summit of Yanapaccha (5347 m)
Yanapaccha climb: clouds moving in on the descend
Yanapaccha climb: clouds moving in on the descend
Yanapaccha climb: Jim about to reach the camp with Chopicalqui (6354 m), Huascaran Sur (6768 m) and Huascaran Norte (6664 m) in the background
Yanapaccha climb: Jim about to reach the camp with Chopicalqui (6354 m), Huascaran Sur (6768 m) and Huascaran Norte (6664 m) in the background
Yanapaccha climb: the cook of the guided party waves good bye (after demanding a tip for the shot)
Yanapaccha climb: the cook of the guided party waves good bye (after demanding a tip for the shot)